Glassy, stomach high turbines roping along the breakwall. Straight to SB: to spy enchanting spinners. Pushing South into Morro Bay: volcanic plug geology and peregrine falcons. Camp: Pismo Beach, Oceano Dunes. Put the Tacoma back on sand where she belongs. Swim out but avoid the guy getting barreled on a jetski. Cayucos is offshore and amazingly walled down the beach…400 yard cylinders. The giant elephant seals swimming on the inside have the best view. Somewhere: big lefts slab over an abrupt rocky reef…mindsurf. Every turn-out offers dynamic new potential. Southbound: Incredible wave potential everywhere. Dust in our solar system reflecting light…beautiful! Morning at head high Big Sur reef. Glorious dark skies…”What’s that glow in the West?” WOW! The Zodiacal Light! First observation, been looking for years. Watch The Point get torn apart by a heavy Westside crew including Flea and Nat Young. A little nook is working on the Westside- waves bounce off the backside and wedge into fast hollow peaks…super fun. Next morning southbound, hike to the Boneyard and pay homage to Mavericks. Urban camp Pacifica Pier…rocked to sleep by shorebreak energy. Intellect and cute French accents make for a late night. Found them perusing the poetry at a classic Beat bookstore. Dirtbag shower in the bathroom before meeting up with new friends from France. Southbound down iconic Route 1 back to the city. Cruised the dairy farms way out to the Lighthouse and Chimney Rocks. Chilly swim, washed down the beach, exhilarating wompy visions.
Double overhead+? on the outside…head high warping wedges on the sand. Steep blowing sand shorebreak at South Beach. Exposed to North Pacific fury like few places in California. Next morning to Point Reyes National Seashore.
Big set from the Marin Headlands through binos. Drive over the Golden Gate to the Marin Headlands…overlooking everything. They didn’t have much fun on the cruise, but we made plans to discuss Rimbaud and Sartè later in the week. Make new friends: literature teachers from Paris: Ocèane and Aurelie. Seasick zombies stumble to the “Ralph” spot and unload, immobilized by sheer misery. Our vessel, The Kitty Kat looks like a plague cruise. It’s out there, if you want it bad enough. Apparently never ridden…the last California wave frontier. The reefs at Indianhead and Mirounga Bay firing with 8-10ft of raw NW Ocean energy. No whales today but more than my money’s worth. Homestead of innumerable seabirds, pinnipeds, intrepid biologists and the largest of great white sharks. Next morning to Pier 39 for whale-watching cruise to the mythological Farallon Islands: decomposing granite monoliths 28 miles offshore. Cruise the Piers and Wharf: clam chowder and people watching. Once heard a big-wave icon say he can instantly decipher who truly has the proverbial “Right Stuff” by the way they react to an approaching set…EJ is the guy swimming into the guts of It because It “looks fun.” EJ under the bridge and dreaming. Thought it was novelty, discovered a legitimate wave. On to FP- too much tide- Crissy Park nap. Luck into a beauty of a right wall: nice speed, sensational feel. Back to Sloat: overhead+, catch a rip way outside. Sunday 6:00am Kelly’s Cove check: not working and no orange swim cap. Chat with Child: coffee shop drug dealer representing “Dead Nation.” Vibrant humanity. Snagged a couple solid peaks in the strong drift. Breakfast with Homeboy Eric and Homegirl Rachel then northbound to Ocean Beach, San Francisco to meet up with our buddy Dallas. Depart Encinitas 8:30pm Friday evening: seven hours straight to Eastside Santa Cruz urban camp.
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